Об особенностях китайской моды рассказывает член международного жюри 15 Китайской Недели моды, заведующий кафедрой конструирования швейных изделий Ивановской государственной текстильной академии, профессор Виктор Кузьмичев. 15 Китайская неделя моды сезона «весна – лето 2012» проходила с 24 октября по 1 ноября 2011 года в Пекине. Впервые Китайская (именно китайская, а не пекинская) неделя моды была проведена в 1996 году. За прошедшее время в них участвовали 210 дизайнеров, 280 брендов из 10 стран (Япония, Корея, Сингапур, Франция, Италия, США, Россия, Англия, Швейцария), которые организовали 639 показов. Китайские Недели стали платформой для появления высокой моды в Китае, одежды ready-to-wear, украшений, аксессуаров, make-up, нового дизайна, новых технологий и их продвижения в общем тренде «Design in China». В 15 Неделе моды участвовали 50 брендов и учебных заведений, 40 дизайнеров, 180 студентов, которые подготовили 44 показов, 6 профессиональных конкурсов и других 60 мероприятий. Неделя, получившая эксклюзивное название мирового автомобильного гиганта, была организована Китайской Ассоциацией моды (China Fashion Association) и комитетом по ее подготовке (China Fashion Week Organizing Committee). Места проведения показов – район Пекина, в котором сосредоточены выставочные залы и бутики - D PARK Beijing House, и банкетный зал Beijing Hotel. Среди участников нынешней Недели – 5 дизайнеров, отмеченных в прошлые годы золотыми наградами, 17 дизайнеров, ранее входивших в десятку лучших, а также 13 новичков. Были показаны коллекции женской, мужской, спортивной, джинсовой, трикотажной одежды, свадебных платьев, нижнего белья, свадебных платьев, и др. В Неделе участвовали следующие китайские дизайнеры и бренды: ready-to-wear - WHITE COLLAR, EACHWAY, SCFASHION, Marisfrolg, Garywat, S•DEER, SUNXIUQIN, Yin Mo, FANGFANG, IMMOBILE, Leadingshow (Msuya), VISCAP, Jinyuan, NEOEN, AS AUGUST SILK, Weiyun, CHUYAN; haute-couture и de-luxe - NE•TIGER, MARYMA, MARKCHEUNG, TANYA, DENGHAO, GIOIA PAN, Rabbit Warm; свадебные платья и нижнее белье - Tsai Meiyue, Aimer. Мужскую одежду представляли Cabbeen Chic, LILANZ, Zeng Fengfei, Beauty Berry, L&XF, SAN DAVID, EDENBO, VLOV, ZUOAN, POKPOKER, TRIES и WOLFZONE. Смежные с бытовой одеждой области представляли QIAODAN (спортивная одежда), TORAY и Asahi Kasei (ткани), MGPIN (косметика), MBAOBAO и G…VILL (обувь и сумки). В Неделе участвовали самые известные китайские дизайнеры - Liu Wei, CABBEEN, Zhu Chongyun, Zhang Zhifeng, Zhuang Ganran, Chu Yan, Hong Jinshan, Wang Dongfang, Hong Meixuan, Guo Baobao, Yuan Bing, Cheng Qiong, Wu Qingqing, Qi Gang, Ye Jianying, Yang Jie, Qu Tingnan, Ji Wenbo, Sun Xiuqin, GIOIA Pan, Zeng Fengfei, Wang Yannan, Shi Jie, Liu Xiaofei, Tsai Meiyue , Liu Yong, He Ping, Zhao Huizhou, Li Xiaoyan, Chen Wen, Wang Yutao, Luo Jingjie, Liu Lili, Deng Hao, Liu Yiqun, Fu Kui, Marry Ma, Zhang Zhaoda, James Moore, Mao Geping, Chi Airu. Было проведено для студентов 8 китайских профессиональных конкурсов: 1. Конкурс коллекций нижнего белья «Ordifen Cup». 2. Конкурс спортивной одежды «Qiaodan Cup». 3. Конкурс одежды из кожи «YINGDAK Cup». 4. Конкурс коллекций свадебных платьев «Famory Cup». 5. Конкурс текстильных материалов «Huafu Cup». 6. Конкурс коллекций одежды casual «JeansWest Cup» 7. Конкурс иллюстраторов моды «L&XF Cup».8. Конкурсный показ коллекций выпускников двух пекинских вузов – BIFT и Raffles. Все конкурсы спонсируют крупнейшие компании-производители одежды. Также участвовали с показами немецкий бренд Schumacher и афроамериканский дизайнер женских сумок, а теперь уже и одежды JAMIE MOORE. Победители CFW SS 2012 Для выбора лучших коллекций было сформировано международное жюри, в состав которого входили представители средств массовой информации, преподаватели ведущих школ дизайна Китая, представители трех иностранных учебных заведений (Ивановской государственной текстильной академии, французской ESMODE, международной школы дизайна RAFFLES). В Китае существует довольно сложная многоступенчатая система определения лучших дизайнеров, согласно которой окончательные итоги выглядят так. Лучшие китайские бренды: мужская одежда – Cabbeen Chic, ZUOAN, LILIANZ; женская одежда – GIOIA PAN, EACHWAY, FangFang. Десятка лучших дизайнеров Китая, активно проявивших себя в 2011 году: 1. Wang Dongfang, бренд IMMOBILE (женская одежда). 2. Yang Jie, бренд POKPOKER (мужская одежда). 3. Cheng Qiong, бренд QIAODAN (спортивная одежда) 4. Yuan Bing, бренд VISCAP (мужская и женская одежда) 5. CHUYAN (женская одежда) 6. Wu Qingqing, бренд VLOV (мужская одежда). 7. Luo Jingjie, бренд Neoen (авангардная концептуальная одежда). 8. Sun Xiuqin, бренд Qiuci Beauty (национальная одежда). 9. Jinyuan Hong Meixuan (женская одежда).10. Weiyun Ye Jianying (женская одежда). Лучшими дизайнерами, стабильно работающими, показавшими хорошие коллекции на прошлых Неделях моды и достигшие наивысших результатов именно в 2011 году, признаны: женской одежды - DengHao, Liu Wei, GIOIA PAN (Тайвань),мужской одежды - Zeng Fengfei, Wang Yutao, Chen Wen. Пятерка лучших китайских дизайнеров из предыдущего второго списка для окончательного выбора трех победителей, выглядит так: Liu Wei, GIOIA PAN, Chen Wen, DengHao, Wang Yutao. А теперь о самых главных наградах: победитель в номинации «Лучший дизайнер женской одежды» - DengHao победитель в номинации «Лучший дизайнер мужской одежды» - Chen Wen, бренд SAN DAVID,победитель в номинации «Лучший дизайнер Китая» – Wang Yutao, бренд Beauty Berry. Фотографии сделаны автором и любезно предоставлены генеральным секретарем China Fashion Association Ms. Zhu Shaofang.
Positive economic growth in China in the context of falling global growth rates Sales driver in terms of fashion, China's egotists, the young consumer generation in focus at CHIC New shows-in show at CHIC: CHIC-TAILORING and CHIC- KIDZ, high-growth market segments CHIC Special Service: VIP meetings with eCommerce platforms, showrooms, agents and buyers for international brands From March 12 to 14, 2019, 1,365 national and international exhibitors with 1,453 brands from 16 countries and regions will attend the CHIC China International Fashion Fair, Asia's largest and most important fashion and lifestyle fair, at 117,200 square meters of exhibition space at the National Exhibition & Convention Center in Shanghai. In the context of falling global growth rates, China remains the world's largest retail market in 2019, with forecast USD 5.6 trillion in retail sales, surpassing the USA by USD 100 billion this year. A recent McKinsey study predicts that China will also overtake the US as the largest clothing market for the first time this year. E-commerce is a key driver of China's retail market, and sales are expected to rise more than 30% to USD 1.898 trillion this year, meaning that China's online retail sales account for 35.3% of retail sales, by far the world's highest rate. In apparel and footwear, online sales are estimated to amount for 44% this year, climbing to 55% by 2020 according to PWC. The sales drivers in fashion are still the Millennials, the consumers born in the early 80s and 90s, which make up 410 million people, more than the entire population of North America. They are Western-oriented and dispose of increasing incomes. China ́s Generation Z (born at the end of '90, beginning of 2000) is considered self-confident and carefree, spending more than 15% of disposable household incomes on luxury goods. Individuality, authenticity and sustainability are values of Generation Y (born in the early 80s), which are important topics at CHIC The new consumer structure is integrated in the whole fair design at CHIC and this year ́s slogan is "Hi Me", which was launched in cooperation with WGSN. It reflects the young Chinese consumer, the economic power house in the country. The exhibitors' offer is increasingly focusing on the 'egotists', who act individually, fast and set the latest trends. The designer section IMPULSES is fully booked, CHIC-TAILORING celebrates its premiere at the upcoming CHIC and presents high-quality bespoke collections; GREEN FASHION is a key topic at the fair, with more and more manufacturers presenting sustainable collections in all segments of CHIC . In particular, the manufacturers of baby and children's clothing are expanding their ecological offer to meet the consumer demand such as CHIC-KIDZ exhibitor GRASS AND WOOD DYEING ALLIANCE that is famous for its environmental dye technique offering healthy clothing for the cherished youngest generation. CHIC- KIDZ will also be presented for the first time as a separate section at CHIC as show-in show. The Chinese market is highly diversified with regional differences and system requirements. Choosing the right partner is crucial for successful market entry. Representatives of all trade channels in China come to CHIC . The organizers intensively support the international participants with a special VIP visitor marketing. Over 100 exclusive trade contacts from all over China, agents and buyers for international brands, have been researched by CHIC especially for the international business since last autumn and a special matching program has been developed. CHIC segments In five halls, North Hall and Halls 1 to 4, the more than 1,300 exhibitors at CHIC in March present themselves in dedicated areas: Urban View, New Look, Heritage, Impulses, Fashion Journey, Superior Factory, Secret Stars, Shanghai Bag and Future Link as well as the five shows- in-show CHIC-Young Blood, CHIC-KIDZ, CHIC-TAILORING , Preview in China and PH-Value. In the international field of FASHION JOURNEY , of the over 220 exhibitors the largest European participation is traditionally Italy. The Italian Pavilion presents 23 Italian brands of garments, bags, shoes and accessories: ACCADEMIA, ALESSANDRO GHERARDI, ALESSIO BARDELLE, CASHEART MADE IN ITALY, DIS-DESIGN ITALIAN SHOES, DONNA LAURA VENEZIA, FABIANI, FLOWER MOUNTAIN, FONTANI, GIOVANNI FABIANI, IBICI & SEGRETA, IL GERGO, MANZONI24, NELLO SANTI, OMERO, PAOLO ALBIZZATI, PRIMIGI MADE IN ITALY, SARA KENT, SPERNANZONI, SUPREMA, TIFFI, TRICOT CHIC, VIZIO. The Italian Pavilion is supported by the Italian Trade Agency ITA with accompanying promotional measures, i.a. a lavishly designed catwalk with several shows a day in the pavilion. In addition, CALPIERRE, EDDYDANIELE, EVALUNA, DI FRANCO, DUEDI’, LEBLE’, RAFFAELE D’AMELIO participate as individual exhibitors in a separate area. The vivid and continuous participation of Italian fashion brands in CHIC underlines the strong involvement of the Italian fashion industry in the Chinese consumer market and its belief in the Chinese market potential. Just as the exhibitors at the French pavilion Paris Forever, Maison Lener, Urbahia, or Chemin Blancs, all long-standing participants at the fair. As part of the foreign trade fair program of the Federal Ministry for Economic Affairs and Energy, carried out by Messe Dusseldorf, the German companies present themselves under the roof "Made in Germany", for the first time with Vocier, exclusive travel baggage solutions for business travelers, and menswear label Fynch- Hatton. Other group participations come from Korea with the show-in show PREVIEW IN CHINA , Taiwan and Hong Kong. Individual exhibitors come from Canada, including the premiere of Joseph Ribkoff, from Belgium, Ecuador, India, Japan, Poland, Switzerland, the UK and the USA. IMPULSES , the design division of CHIC , occupies the entire Northern Entrance Hall with young talents such as Eva Xu, Haofei Guo, Liying Jiang, Yuhao who have already caused a sensation on an international level. Yuhao ́s creations are also worn by Lady Gaga. Chen Wen was awarded China ́s most important fashion price, the Jinding Award. Yichao Zhang was named one of China ́s top ten designers. A group participation of alumni of Beijing Institute Of Fashion Technology, Academy of Arts & Design of Tsinghua University includes Hua Mushen, Mao Mart Homme and ANJAYLIA who regularly show their latest designs at CHIC . They are presented to the fashion clientele in a special creative fashion ambience. Menswear segment URBAN VIEW registers a growing number of exhibitors, 185 brands in total. Well-known companies such as GSON, LIANSE, ZUO, Hodo Group with its menswear, kidswear and home collection use CHIC as the stage for their business in the market again. In the special exhibition area China Fashion Customization Exhibition representative companies such as Evo Pai Te, Long Sheng, Matthew Perry, Jayne and Micro present themselves. Denim is strong with 17 jeanswear companies from Dayong. A group participation of 12 casual wear companies from Shaxi will further add to the portfolio found at URBAN VIEW. Market leader Ruyi Group will participate in the match making program. NEW LOOK , the womenswear section, shines with more than 200 brands like INXX, MEILLEUR MOMENT, Eifini, TCOULMORE, JAC (from Canada), MUKZIN and Dankeyun. For several seasons, Chinese menswear companies have been investing heavily in the tailoring sector, with the launch of CHIC- TAILORING taking this market development into account. For the first time more than 70 bespoke manufacturers will be exhibiting at CHIC in Hall 3 including KuteSmart (formerly RedCollar), DEEL KALL, Iwode, Longsailing, Dongting, SEAT, Saints Crocodile. Shirts will be presented by Tianchi, Paisley, Beikeman etc. The new show-in-show CHIC-KIDZ will also be celebrating its premiere at the trade fair. The launch in March will see more than 50 exhibitors and brands including market leader Balabala, Xtep Kids, Jin Tong Wang, EUROJJ, Hush Puppies, Haggis, SOUHAIT, Eton Kidd, Ou Cha Cha, San Yuan Yi, De Brand, Water Baby, Elephant etc. The collections show kidswear, teen fashion, school uniforms, kids swimwear, kids designer brands etc. Kidswear is a strong growth segment, not least due to the easing of the one-child policy in China. CHIC-YOUNG BLOOD show-in-show is the platform for well-known Asian streetwear labels. Wookong, Pace, Jelly Lin, Coffee, CRUCIAL among a total of 61 brands use CHIC as an essential marketing platform. Over 130 exhibitors present the whole HERITAGE range: leather, fur and downwear. National group holdings from Xinji, Tongxiang and Yuyao occupy the largest areas of Hall 1. Down wear is presented by Fei Ling Fei Xun and Jack, Fan Nan Shang, Dashuo, Specials etc., modern leatherwear by Gordon Chic. Jackeifire, G.I.V.E., Nuozhi, Siwei Group, Zelefasa exhibit their latest looks. SECRET STARS and SHANGHAI BAGS with accessories, footwear, bags and luggage, gather 43 brands in SHANGHAI BAGS including 10 shoe brands and 119 brands in SECRET STARS including Ruediger and Leonardo from Germany, EcuaAndino from Ecuador, Front from China Hongkong, Itarora from Italy, Because from Japan, Idaeamy from China Taiwan, handcraft hat company Rofei. Botanica will show its world of lifestyle products. The product range encompasses jewellery, hats, silk scarfs, gloves, sunglasses, scents, belts, beauty and personalized items. FUTURE LINK exhibitors like Brother,Brother, Bailian, Amiou, Ziri, Qi Zhirui, Pumpkin Technology, Le Baobao, Lichuan Audio, Guangzhou Changlong show innovative business solutions for the textile industry, from software technology to smart wear, logistics, intelligent printing. CHIC SHOWS and CHIC TALK CHIC drives exchange of market info and gives expert insights into the latest developments in the market. CHIC TALK provides visitors and exhibitors with expert speeches and seminars on the state of technology in the fashion business. Topics are „Driven by Data and AI, It Starts From the Consumer Experience -- the Transformation of Clothing Enterprises In the Data Era" (Jiangsu Hugely DigitalITechnology Co. , Ltd.), "The Scale Solution of Personalized Fashion Design - YoungEasy 4.0 Central Pattern Room Management System Release" (Young Easy Fashion Design (Beijing) Co.,Ltd) etc. CHIC SHOWS stage the latest fashion trends from Lishow Womenswear Original Design Release Show to 2019 Dalang Cup China Women’s Fashion Design Contest and Yinji Fashion Show by Zhengzhou Yinji Department Store to the Overseas Brands Joint Release Show presenting the international design at CHIC. CHIC SERVICES - in focus: visitor marketing for international brands The organizers of CHIC offer the international participants an extensive visitor marketing program for an efficient market entry. It ranges from a match-making in the run-up to the event in which a selected clientele of approximately 50,000 contacts are informed with detailed information about the brands at CHIC ; visitors can arrange appointments with manufacturers beforehand via the homepage of the trade show; the CHIC APP allows visitors to obtain targeted information about the fair offer on site. The fair will feature VIP meetings with the Chinese trade for international manufacturers, e.g. with online retailers like TMall and JD.com, with successful retailers for international brands like Ralph Lauren Trade Limited (Shanghai), with showrooms and multibrand stores like The Mix Place, magmode, Lanhe, SOFREE, YCO, DONGLIANG, YANYI, play lounge etc. distributing international brands and with agents and buyers for international brands like Mengdong International Group limited company (agency of Folli Follie) , Langhao Holdings Limited (agency of C-GANT and US womenswear brand Bebe), Beijing Jiaman clothing limited (agency of Young Versace, Armani Junior, Kenzo Kids), Shanghai Dirui clothing limited (agency of Hazzys) and Guangzhou Hesiting clothing limited (agency of Miss Sixty). This allows for exchange with market experts while providing the opportunity to make important contacts in the Chinese market. Furthermore, at the expense of CHIC , about 100 VIP agents and buyers specialized in the distribution of international brands have been invited to the upcoming event. The VIP Lounge at the fair is reserved for meetings with potential partners; while CHIC additionally creates individual visitor groups for the FASHION JOURNEY area and will actively introduce them to the exhibitors. CHIC SHANGHAI, the reliable partner for the fashion business in China See you soon at CHIC from the 12th to the 14th of March!